How to Tie a Figure 8 Knot – simple for beginning climber part I

It is very important to understand what a figure 8 knot is in rock Climbing because it could save you from dropping to the ground. As a beginning climber, there are plenty of safety procedures to remember so learning to tie a knot is maybe the last thing you’ll remember for an indoor climbing gym. Most climbing gyms have the figure 8 knot already set up on a climbing rope so all you have to do is tie yourself in. However, some gyms are not as equipped.

There are multiple ways to tie a figure 8 knot. In this article, we will learn one simple way of how to tie a figure 8 knot.  First I will discuss what it is so that not only can you tie a figure 8 knot you will also know why it is needed in rock climbing.

A figure 8 knot is a type of stopper knot. It is used in sailing and rock climbing for stopping ropes from slipping out of retaining devices. The knot will automatically jam under the strain or pressure of your weight. It will prevent the rope from slipping out of your harness or an anchor point. However, unlike other types of stopper knots, you can easily undo the knot when it is no longer needed.

  1. Measure out how much rope you would need for a figure 8 and some extra to tie into the harness. We generally measure the length of your arm from the center of your chest to one of your hands.
  2. Have the end of the rope in your hand with the length of your tail that you wanted.
  3. Fold the rope at the end 
  4. With the freehand, lift the folded part up
  5. Twist twice with a free hand while holding the bottom of the rope in place with the other hand
  6. Pull the end of the rope through the loop
  7. Pull the end until the rope forms a figure 8 knot

The end of the figure 8 rope is looped through a climber’s harness and then the rope is double back to figure 8 again securing the climber and the rope. To keep this article simple, short, and sweet, please visit “How to Tie into the Figure 8 Knot, part II” for the next step.

Figure 8 knot tie into the harness and climber

Climb on, my friends!

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