Mammut Smart Alpine Belay Device Review
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Name: Smart Alpine
Website: Amazon.com
Manufacture: Mammut
Support rope diameter: 2 different devices for 2 different sizes 8.9 mm to 10.5mm & 7.5 to 9.5mm
Weight: 135 g or 4.6 oz
Warranty: Lifetime
Overall Rank: 4.5 / 5
Smart Alpine Belay Device, Product Overview
Similar to the Edelrid Mega Jul Sport, the Smart Alpine is a passive assisted braking belay device of the original Smart device created by Mammut. This is a passive device because it does not have any moving parts. The braking mechanism relies purely on the simple shape and angle of the device to catch a fall. It is designed for mountaineering and alpine climbing.
The extended lever allows for easier catching and releasing when lowering the climber. The auto-lock options allow the lead climber to belay one or two climbers directly below the anchor.
The belaying technique for this device is similar to a tubular belay device. However, when feeding out the rope, the belayer will need to pull up on the handle so the rope can run through the device without locking up automatically. It may take a bit of belaying to get used to the motion.
According to the outdloorgearlab.com testers, when belaying a second climber, the auto-block high friction produced low resistance for a two-strand device next to the Black Diamond ATC Guide. This is great for multi-pitch in saving energy on long routes.
The Good & the Bad
The Good:
PRO #1 – The Smart Alpine has low auto-block resistance and smooth handling which is excellent for belaying followers on a multi-pitch climb.
PRO #2 – Versatile for double rope in rappelling and abseiling.
PRO #3 – No extra moving parts for assisted braking. The device is simply utilizing its shape and angle to optimize the braking feature.
The Bad:
CON #1 – The Smart Alpine is not as intuitive as some other devices. It is hard to learn in the beginning. It does take some time to get used to.
CON #2 – It is a little bulkier than some other assisted braking device because of the extended handle and can be jerky when rappelling and lowering.
CON #3 – Based on the testers from outdoorgearlab.com, the Smart Alpine provides the initial catch just like many other assisted braking devices. However, it does require an extra bit of braking force to catch falls. When the climber stops falling, the Smart Alpine does not fully lock. More grip strength is required to keep most of the rope from slipping through.
Who is Smart Alpine Belay Device For?
Similar to the Mega Jul Sport, this Smart Alpine belay device is great for seasoned climbers who like lightweight and appreciate the simplicity of the equipment without compromising the quality. Also, it is great for climbers who look for a multi-functional belay device that gives them the flexibility to climb multi-pitch, alpine, or ice climbing as well as double rope rappelling and abseiling.
Smart Alpine Belay Device Training Video
Also please visit Mammut user manual on how to properly use the device for belaying, rappelling, and abseiling ==> Mammut User Manual for Smart Alpine.
My Final Opinion of Smart Alpine Belay Device
The Smart Alpine is a rivalry of the Mega Jul Sport. It is a simple, and effective belay device. The Smart Alpine is lighter than Grigri but heavier than the Mega Jul. It is in the mid-range weight for an assisted braking device.
This device is still at a fair market price for good value and durable. The auto-block function for multi-pitch handling following climbers is its best feature.
I stumbled across mixed reviews and complaints regarding the Smart Alpine with it being cumbersome and jerky motion lowering/rappelling. Unless you take the time to learn how to use this device well, it is not as intuitive and easy to use. To me, the Smart Alpine could be picked according to the personal preference of details that you prefer in a belay device. It is not a common belay device that I see in a climbing gym environment.
Smart Alpine Belay Device at a Glance…
Name: Smart Alpine
Website: Amazon.com
Manufacture: Mammut
Support rope diameter: 2 devices to handle 2 different rope sizes 8.9 mm to 10.5mm & 7.5 to 9.5mm
Weight: 135 g or 4.6 oz
Warranty: Lifetime
Overall Rank: 4.5 / 5
Do you own a Smart Alpine and would like to share your thoughts? OR perhaps, you may have additional questions that this article does not mentioned, please leave us a comment below.
